Saturday, February 9, 2008

One Night in Bangkok

My flight landed uneventfully, and I made my way through the airport to go through the necessary bureaucracy. En route, however I suddenly had a growing fear, however, that I had not acquired enough Thai Bhat from my bank in order to pay a cab, and pay for my $15 a night hotel room (which is cash only, upfront.) My bank informed me that ATMs will not work in Thailand, as they have blocked access due to too much fraud. The only way to withdraw money is in person at a bank, requesting a cash advance on the card (which would get treated systematically as a simple withdrawal from my bank account. I have also been cautioned against using credit cards for the same reason. I began to try to come up with some options, but started to envision myself spending my 36 hours in Bangkok sitting in the airport.



Democracy Monument

However, when I found the money changing kiosk, they also allowed a cash advances, and voila, I was able to get out of the airport.

Driving in Thailand is much less crowded/crazy than India, however, I did have a taxi driver that seemed to like to drive at 130 kph, which made me a little bit nervous.

Once I reached my hotel the first thing it reminded me of was a college dorm. The receptionists behind the desk were college age and goofing around behind the desk, but were very friendly and helpful (although their English was very weak.) I had reserved a single room for $15, but since I was checking in at 6:00am instead of the normal 3:00pm, the room was not ready. (At this low price, you ask, why didn’t I simply reserve two nights? Keep in mind, it was cash only…its pretty hard to get them to hold a room until 6:00am on faith that I will actually show up and pay it…)

They did however have a double immediately available for $30, so I took that. The hotel lobby, looks as nice as a fancy hotel, although somewhat small. Marble floor, desk, glass doors, etc. Behind the hotel is nice little courtyard with a restaurant where I get my free breakfast in the morning. My room, again has a complete college dorm feel to it. It is very clean, and I checked every crevice and moved things that don’t normally get moved to check for rodents or bugs, and nothing. The bed is made nicely, aside from an outdated comforter (with a cigarette hole in it.)

Oddly enough at this point, my stomach started bothering me. I made it all the way through India without even the slightest problem, but the Thai airways dinner created a minor problem.

I debated what to do: explore the town or sleep. Unfortunately, I spent way too much time debating instead of doing. I finally decided to go out and check out the Grand Palace. Once walking the streets, I immediately ran into some very “friendly” people, asking where I’m from, what I’m doing, and if I’ve seen this or that temple yet. The first individual began talking US politics, and then led into suggestions of where I should go. Then he went into the story about what tuk-tuks I should ride, because they will only be 20 baht (about $0.75) for an hour circle tour. After a 10 minute conversation, where he insisted on showing me where on my map these places were, I thinked him for the information and moved onward in the direction I had already been going. At the next block, essentially the same thing happened with a different individual. This one was very insistent that I should take the tuk-tuk ride. In fact, after the 5 minute discussion, as I began walking away the price dropped and dropped until it was 5 baht. At this point, I realized this is the common ploy of recruiting you to get on a tuk-tuk and then taking you to several shops, where the recruiter gets a commission. The next block, this occurred again with a 3rd person. This time, I cut the individual off, and told him I already got the advice on the last couple blocks, and I explained that I understand the “strings attached” to this. I walked away while he tried to insist there was no shopping involved. At this rate, I figured, I‘d never see any of Thailand.


Fortunately this issue subsided and I began walking around. Perhaps it was my stomach, or my excessive exhaustion, but I found the area to be eerie. There are temple complexes everywhere with enormous gold buddhas. I would approach a complex that appeared to be a temple complex, and I would find a small gateway and enter. Once I did this, it was very quiet, and quite empty, and I began to wonder if I was not supposed to be there. On top of that, 2 of the individuals I ran into this morning mentioned that many of the temples are closed to foreigners until later, because it is the weekend, and they are reserved for Thai to worship. On top of that ,the King(?)’s sister passed away a few weeks ago, so there is a special celebration planned this weekend for her at the Grand Palace, so the hours are limited more than usual.
Temple of the Emerald Buddha Cameras were not allowed inside, if you look closely, you can see the buddha in the doorway on the right.


The Giant Swing

None the less, I cautiously wandered about some of the temples. Each one has a wall around it, and some of them you can hear chanting or praying. Sometimes loudly through speakers, sometimes very faintly in the background. The stark contrast of the peace, from the busy Bangkok streets, underscored by the faint murmuring was enough to give me goosebumps. After I hit several of the temples (or “Wats”) I did begin to kind of feel like each one is the same thing over again. They are pretty spectacular in the mirrors, and colors that they are adorned with, but they are all very similar. I eventually made it to the Grand Palace and attempted to go in.
This was at about 1:00pm, which one of the “recruituers” had told me was when they would open. Unfortunately, it didn’t open for foreigners until 3:00pm, and then would only be open for an hour. So I jumped on a tuk-tuk back to the hotel, and decided to have lunch. I saw so much thai food being cooked on the road side, that I kind of got turned off by it. I also wasn’t real impressed with the smell of it, so I ended up having a steak burger. This was very different than what I’m used to as well, and I didn’t particularly like it. (Although again I think I’m just crabby because of my stomach and fatigue. However the bill for a burger and a bill came out to be 215 baht. Or about $6. Wow, can’t beat that.




Buddha in Golden Mount



I then made my way back to the Grand Palace, once it was beyond the Thai only hours. I wandered the complex, but again was disappointed to find that some of the key buildings were closed to the public, because the King’s sister is lying in state, and/or they’re being used for the festivities. So it turns out I won’t be able to see much of the grandeur of the Grand Palace. The only building accessible was the Emerald Buddha (which they don’t let you bring a camara into.

At this point, I did something which I think goes against every social rule in Bangkok, and definitely defies the culture of Khao San Road: I went to sleep at 7:00pm and slept until 7:00am. I woke up feeling much worse than I did yesterday, so today I will be taking it easy.

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