My plan for Dubai, was much less organized than what I had for Oman. The only items I had on my list were to go on a site seeing bus, and to attend a Christian church on Friday. Friday is the holy day in the middle east (Thursday-Friday is generally considered the weekend) and there are a handful of Christian churches.
Anyway, so for today the first thing I did, was get my bus Ticket. There is a British organization called the Big Bus Company. They have 3 such services, one in London, one in Philadelphia, and one in Dubai. Roughly $45, and you get a 24 hour, all day, hop- on-hop-off pass. If you stay on, the entire route is about 4 hours, and is narrated in English. It takes you through all the different parts of Dubai: Bur Dubai, Deira, and Jumeira, and runs every 20-30 minutes. So you can get off at a site you like, walk around, and jump on the next one only a few minutes later, picking up where you left off.
Anyway, so for today the first thing I did, was get my bus Ticket. There is a British organization called the Big Bus Company. They have 3 such services, one in London, one in Philadelphia, and one in Dubai. Roughly $45, and you get a 24 hour, all day, hop- on-hop-off pass. If you stay on, the entire route is about 4 hours, and is narrated in English. It takes you through all the different parts of Dubai: Bur Dubai, Deira, and Jumeira, and runs every 20-30 minutes. So you can get off at a site you like, walk around, and jump on the next one only a few minutes later, picking up where you left off.
Dubai Big Bus
The closest bus stop to me was about a mile or so away, so I began walking. My hotel is in Deira, which is the east half of Dubai. Deira is separated from the rest of Dubai by the Dubai Creek, which connects to the Persian gulf. This area has some souks and generally has a bit more of a middle eastern urban feel to it. A lot of small store fronts lining the streets.
The first thing I noticed in walking around, is you don’t have the same clear sets of different ethnic groups as you did Oman. In Oman, you had the locals, who all wore the same thing. In Muscat and Muttrah they made up about 60% of the people you saw. Elswhere, they were about 95% of the people you saw. Then you had the expat lower level workers, who also for the most part seemed to wear similar clothes (to each other, not to the Omanis). They all wore single colored jump suits. Then you had the European tourists, that dressed, well, like European tourists. Here, there are dozens of different nationalities, and just as many different languages being spoken. My Arabic isn’t coming in near as handy, as with many of the people I’ve had to talk to for on reason or another, few of them clearly spoke Arabic.
Once I got to the bus stop, I purchased my ticket, and jumped on. They took us along the creek and showed us the loading docs for all the dhows (wooden boats) that do all of the local shipping.
The closest bus stop to me was about a mile or so away, so I began walking. My hotel is in Deira, which is the east half of Dubai. Deira is separated from the rest of Dubai by the Dubai Creek, which connects to the Persian gulf. This area has some souks and generally has a bit more of a middle eastern urban feel to it. A lot of small store fronts lining the streets.
The first thing I noticed in walking around, is you don’t have the same clear sets of different ethnic groups as you did Oman. In Oman, you had the locals, who all wore the same thing. In Muscat and Muttrah they made up about 60% of the people you saw. Elswhere, they were about 95% of the people you saw. Then you had the expat lower level workers, who also for the most part seemed to wear similar clothes (to each other, not to the Omanis). They all wore single colored jump suits. Then you had the European tourists, that dressed, well, like European tourists. Here, there are dozens of different nationalities, and just as many different languages being spoken. My Arabic isn’t coming in near as handy, as with many of the people I’ve had to talk to for on reason or another, few of them clearly spoke Arabic.
Once I got to the bus stop, I purchased my ticket, and jumped on. They took us along the creek and showed us the loading docs for all the dhows (wooden boats) that do all of the local shipping.
Dhows Along Dubai Creek
(For trips just in and around the persian gulf.) Lining the streets were palettes and crates and piles of goods. Refrigerators, flat screen TVs, spices, etc. These will sit here stockpiled, sometimes for weeks waiting for their trip to their next destination. However, there is virtually no security to prevent it from being stolen, besides the strict laws of the country, and the culture here that prevents it. Amazing. Try that along the Chicago river and see how long all these types of goods would last.
Cargo along Dubai Creek
As we got further along the Dubai Creek, we entered into one of Dubai’s many commercial districts. Tall glass covered sky skyscrapers lined the shores, including the Marriot, which has the worlds longest unsupported walkway between two buildings.
Marriott Hotel and Walkway
Bank of Dubai Building
We crossed the creek leaving Deira for Bur Dubai (which means old Dubai) in the distance, we could see the primary commercial district on the horizon: Sheik Zayed Road. The sky line in this direction (really all directions) is ever changing. However, for the last few years this section has been growing straight up. What is already becoming Dubai’s number one recognized landmark (working quickly to beat out the Burj Al Arab, or the World) is what will be the world’s largest structure, and the world’s largest building. Burj Dubai. (Burj means tower).
Sillhouette of Sheik Zayed Road
This building is currently approaching 160 floors. It has not been released exactly how tall the plans are to make it (to prevent competition from exceeding) and it is being built so that additional floors could be added at a later date in case a competing building dares grow taller. As a comparison, the Sears Tower has 112 floors (give or take a couple). So quite a bit bigger! Intrestingly though, it was designed by Chicago's Skidmore, Owings, and Merrill. The same company that built the Sears Tower.
We then approached a stop where I figured I’d find lunch and walk around a bit: Wafi Place. At first glance its your typical shopping mall, until you start to pay attention to the stores. Mont Blanc, Tiffany, Verace, Chanel, Calvin Klein, Bugatti, Pierre Cardin…. 100s of stores, and just about all were at this caliber. I’ve never seen so many stores that I would never step foot in, packed in one single location. No souvenirs to be purchased here.
We then approached a stop where I figured I’d find lunch and walk around a bit: Wafi Place. At first glance its your typical shopping mall, until you start to pay attention to the stores. Mont Blanc, Tiffany, Verace, Chanel, Calvin Klein, Bugatti, Pierre Cardin…. 100s of stores, and just about all were at this caliber. I’ve never seen so many stores that I would never step foot in, packed in one single location. No souvenirs to be purchased here.
Wafi Place
While on my way I happened past two Starbucks, and picked up some needed caffeine. I found a separate area that had a bunch of restaurants, however, between the elaborate building, and the obvious caliber of clientele, I was pretty worried what the price would be, so I returned to a small café in the mall, and ate there. I will say they had the best burger I’ve had in some time (even going back to BEFORE India.) They also had some pretty yummy fruit smoothies. What this country doesn’t do with alcohol, they have done a pretty good job of making up for in fruit drinks (although sneaking a little rum in them would make them absolutely fabulous.
After a short amount of time, I jumped back on the bus. From this spot, the bus took us along Jumeirah beach. We rode past the new “World” development. This is where you can purchase your own man-made island for anywhere between $15 million- $60 million. Don’t forget to include the cost of the required helicopter or boat, because there are no roads out to the islands.
We continued onward until we reached the Burj Al Arab. This is the world’s tallest hotel, and the only existing 7 star hotel located on a man made island. It has two helipads on the top. This hotel is a recommended stop even if your not staying there (rooms are $2000/night +), just to see the lobby, and you can have a drink at the bar. Unfortunately, they told us on the bus that you need a reservation 2 days before hand, or they won’t even let you in. Hmmm…cross that off my list…
While on my way I happened past two Starbucks, and picked up some needed caffeine. I found a separate area that had a bunch of restaurants, however, between the elaborate building, and the obvious caliber of clientele, I was pretty worried what the price would be, so I returned to a small café in the mall, and ate there. I will say they had the best burger I’ve had in some time (even going back to BEFORE India.) They also had some pretty yummy fruit smoothies. What this country doesn’t do with alcohol, they have done a pretty good job of making up for in fruit drinks (although sneaking a little rum in them would make them absolutely fabulous.
After a short amount of time, I jumped back on the bus. From this spot, the bus took us along Jumeirah beach. We rode past the new “World” development. This is where you can purchase your own man-made island for anywhere between $15 million- $60 million. Don’t forget to include the cost of the required helicopter or boat, because there are no roads out to the islands.
We continued onward until we reached the Burj Al Arab. This is the world’s tallest hotel, and the only existing 7 star hotel located on a man made island. It has two helipads on the top. This hotel is a recommended stop even if your not staying there (rooms are $2000/night +), just to see the lobby, and you can have a drink at the bar. Unfortunately, they told us on the bus that you need a reservation 2 days before hand, or they won’t even let you in. Hmmm…cross that off my list…
Burj al Arab (picture is deceiving, it is quite far in the distance)
Next stop, Mall of the Emirates. I believe this is now the world’s largest shopping mall. Connected to it is an indoor ski slope, in case you get the urge to go snow skiing while walking around the desert.
Next stop, Mall of the Emirates. I believe this is now the world’s largest shopping mall. Connected to it is an indoor ski slope, in case you get the urge to go snow skiing while walking around the desert.
Indoor Ski Slope at Mall of the Emirates
We continued onward, and headed for Sheikh Zayed Road. This is a 16 lane expressway that runs the length of Dubai, and continues to Abu Dhabi. (although I’m pretty sure it is not that wide the whole way.) Driving down this road, on the right you could see a growing figure looming in the distance as we approached the main commercial stretch. Burj Dubai.
Burj Dubai
If you haven’t noticed, there is definitely a theme throughout Dubai. Be the biggest, be the best. Money and materialism seem to be running amuck in this place. The tremendous buildings are amazing, but even more surprising is how many are currently under construction. There have to be at least as many sky scrapers under construction as are fully built.
Several New Highrises Under Construction (Sheik Zayed Road)
Unlike Oman, this city has grown up since the invention of cars, and is very much a planned city. And the plan for the city is to make it huge. While they have planned the roads to handle lots of traffic, there is still quite a bit of congestion. They are currently in development of a rail system to cover the metro area, which may help.
Heading down Sheik Zayed Road is an interesting drive, as once you get into the heart of it, all of the skyscrapers, are set in a perfectly straight line on either side of the road. The façade of each building perfectly even with all the ones next to it. You end up in this long corridor of 16 lane highway, with these monstrous buildings towering over you on either side.
My bus trip ended at the City Center mall. This was more geared towards the average shopper, and was completely mobbed. Most of the locals here, appeared to be dressed in western style clothing. After only a few minutes, I decided to look for an exit and get a taxi back to the hotel. While looking, I saw a line that said taxi queue.
Unlike Oman, this city has grown up since the invention of cars, and is very much a planned city. And the plan for the city is to make it huge. While they have planned the roads to handle lots of traffic, there is still quite a bit of congestion. They are currently in development of a rail system to cover the metro area, which may help.
Heading down Sheik Zayed Road is an interesting drive, as once you get into the heart of it, all of the skyscrapers, are set in a perfectly straight line on either side of the road. The façade of each building perfectly even with all the ones next to it. You end up in this long corridor of 16 lane highway, with these monstrous buildings towering over you on either side.
My bus trip ended at the City Center mall. This was more geared towards the average shopper, and was completely mobbed. Most of the locals here, appeared to be dressed in western style clothing. After only a few minutes, I decided to look for an exit and get a taxi back to the hotel. While looking, I saw a line that said taxi queue.
Beginning of Taxi Line
Behind it was a line that streteched as far as the eye could see. It would be quite awhile before I got my taxi. I walked and walked and walked until I got to the end of the line, and got in it. An hour later, I got to the sign I first saw, and the line heads out the door. Well, not quite. There is another section of line that went down the length of a long hallway and back. After another hour of waiting, I finally got my taxi. All in all, the wait was well over 2 hours. Second Half of Taxi Line
While in line, I had a lot of time to figure out what I wanted to do for dinner. My guidebook strongly recommended a Moroccan restaurant, called Marrakech on Sheik Zayed Road, with live Moroccan music. This sounded fabulous. Due to the location, I was a little worried about my clothes (I was in jeans) but figured I could find a back up if need be. I had the driver drop me off at the Shangri-La hotel, where the restaurant was located, and found my way in. When I got to the podium at the door, the women said they had nothing available. Ughh. All night I asked? She said maybe at 11:30. (It was currently 8:00. She said it was possible something maybe would open up. I asked about the prices and if I was dressed appropriately, and she offered the menu. On top “Valentine’s Day Menu.” Whoops, that’s right. Today’s Valentine’s Day, and I’m trying to get into a very nice restaurant. Not gonna happen. On top of that, the fact that today’s menu only had dinner for two listed, I gave up, and decided to move onward. Now depressed that I’m spending Valentine’s Day alone. At this point, I needed someone to hold my hand, and I thought a good beer would do fine. My guide book also mentioned a bar in the same area called Long’s Bar, so I looked for that. This ended up being much harder than I thought, and I spent quite a bit of time walking up and down the street looking for it. I eventually gave up and decided to pick something else, but then immediately found it. I went in had a beer, a Philly Cheese Steak sandwich, and took advantage of the 2 for 1 Valentine’s Day shots, (the names of which I won’t repeat here)
I then headed back to my hotel and spent a couple hours talking to my Valentine over instant messenger.
I am truly amazed at the amount of development here. We saw an entire skyscraper office park with 20 buildings under construction, each that I think were going to be 60-80 stories high. I can’t imagine that there is that much demand here for commercial and residential space to warrant everything going up. It seems like instead of finding the equilibrium between supply and demand here, they just continue to supply, but yet it continues to create more demand.
While in line, I had a lot of time to figure out what I wanted to do for dinner. My guidebook strongly recommended a Moroccan restaurant, called Marrakech on Sheik Zayed Road, with live Moroccan music. This sounded fabulous. Due to the location, I was a little worried about my clothes (I was in jeans) but figured I could find a back up if need be. I had the driver drop me off at the Shangri-La hotel, where the restaurant was located, and found my way in. When I got to the podium at the door, the women said they had nothing available. Ughh. All night I asked? She said maybe at 11:30. (It was currently 8:00. She said it was possible something maybe would open up. I asked about the prices and if I was dressed appropriately, and she offered the menu. On top “Valentine’s Day Menu.” Whoops, that’s right. Today’s Valentine’s Day, and I’m trying to get into a very nice restaurant. Not gonna happen. On top of that, the fact that today’s menu only had dinner for two listed, I gave up, and decided to move onward. Now depressed that I’m spending Valentine’s Day alone. At this point, I needed someone to hold my hand, and I thought a good beer would do fine. My guide book also mentioned a bar in the same area called Long’s Bar, so I looked for that. This ended up being much harder than I thought, and I spent quite a bit of time walking up and down the street looking for it. I eventually gave up and decided to pick something else, but then immediately found it. I went in had a beer, a Philly Cheese Steak sandwich, and took advantage of the 2 for 1 Valentine’s Day shots, (the names of which I won’t repeat here)
I then headed back to my hotel and spent a couple hours talking to my Valentine over instant messenger.
I am truly amazed at the amount of development here. We saw an entire skyscraper office park with 20 buildings under construction, each that I think were going to be 60-80 stories high. I can’t imagine that there is that much demand here for commercial and residential space to warrant everything going up. It seems like instead of finding the equilibrium between supply and demand here, they just continue to supply, but yet it continues to create more demand.
On a personal note, I just got an IM from Natalie, that Kalyssa broke her toe yesterday bowling. She dropped the ball on it. She is back home and everything is fine though.
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