Wednesday, August 13, 2014

Ascending Mauna Kea

Tuesday morning Amy, who had not been with us during the previous nights late night activities, walked towards the kitchen, and saw what appeared to be some wildlife that had snuck into the kitchen and was resting on the table watching the waterfall through the window.  After several failed attempts at shooing the animal away from afar, she realized the object was inanimate.  She later learned the story of the goat statue that we found high atop the cabinets.
 
Taryn and I had our rescheduled appointment for our Volcanos Helicopter ride.  We went into the kitchen to get a quick breakfast, and headed over to the airport for the second time this week with hopes of a successful ride.  To our dismay, our corner of Hawaii was very rainy.  Our weather apps on our phones showed that most of this side of the island was currently under some cloud cover.  Nonetheless, we hoped for the best and headed to the airport to check in for our ride.  After sitting for a half hour or so, they called our names, only to inform us that the helicopter had some maintenance issues, and we again could either receive a refund, or reschedule.  So for a second time, we rescheduled for later in the week.

After doing a quick bit of shopping for some necessities for ourselves and our housemates, we stopped to pick up the Toyota 4Runner we had reserved for the afternoons trek to the summit of Mauna Kea.  This was a hugely welcomed change from the Chevy Spark Taryn and I had been driving in for the last few days.  The Spark was about as small of a car as I’ve ever seen in the US.  Without joking, two days earlier, we were trying to accelerate after a light turned green, and we were passed handily by an old man on a moped, while our car sounded like it was revving up to 6000 rpms and went from 0 to 35mph in about 25.2 seconds.
Our Chevy Spark: Fits in the Trunk of Most Other Cars

We drove the 4Runner back to the house, but had some time before we planned on starting the mountain expedition.  Taryn and I decided to go find some trails to hike to fill up the time.  After researching a few, it looked liked the Kaumana Caves would fit our schedule the best.  This was just outside Hilo.  We grabbed some supplies through them in our backpacks, and headed out.  The entrance to the caves was right along the main road that ran near our house.  A well marked staircase descended towards the caves, where we had a choice of going right or left.  We started to the right and wandered into a fairly large volcanic rock cave.  This cave wasn’t tremendously deep, but went several hundred feet in one direction.  The floor was full of rocky piles, and especially with Taryn’s toe injury from the day before, was a little bit difficult to climb through.  We went in a bit and looked around, and then headed towards the other side of the staircase.



This appeared to be a fairly small cave, only a couple hundred feet deep, but at the far end, there was a rock shelf about 5 feet high, with some lavarocks under it.  I looked curiously behind it, as it seemed like there might be something under this shelf about 20 feet back.  I asked Taryn if she’d indulge me for a moment, and I crawled under and went to the back.  Sure enough, there was an old lava tube that opened up to be 7-10 feet In diameter and we could walk through.  I went back to Taryn, and after a little coaxing she came in as well, and we continued walking through it with the help of a flashlight.  We walked about an 8th of a mile, but decided to turn back for a couple different reasons.  (later I read that this tube apparently can be traversed for quite some distance possibly several miles.) 



After this brief hike, Taryn suggested getting some smoothies at a hippy dippy place she found called the Sweet Cane Cafe.  She ordered the Go Green smoothie, in order to get her kale fix for the day, and I got a smoothie called Date Daze (I think) which had dates, cinnamon, blueberries, and some other yummy healthy stuff.  It was tremendously sweet, but very good.

Before heading back to the house, we had to do a quick drive by of the BJ Penn Training and Fitness Center.  Taryn, who is a big fan of MMA, had been very excited to see this, and needed to at least take a picture of the building and send it to her brother and a few friends who also shared her affection for MMA.  As we drove past, Taryn mused at how cool it would be if she went inside and found BJ Penn there. I had said I’m sure he just loves when tourists do that.  She responded, “Oh he would be happy to see me!”  I asked why that was, and she gave the obvious answer: “Because I’m a pretty girl and want to see him…”  We decided to afford BJ a bit of privacy and decided against this.

We headed back to the house to gather the rest of our group for our trek up to Mauna Kea.  We had about 45 minutes, so I decided to take a quick hike behind our house to the waterfall and take some pictures, shared below.



When I headed back, we put together some food for the evening, packed up the car, and all 6 of us piled into the 4Runner to head to the mountain.

Mauna Kea is the highest point of the state of Hawaii, at 13,803 feet above sea level.  The mountain however, measured from its base at the ocean floor, is actually 33,100 feet.  More than twice the size of Mt. Everest’s base-to-peak height.  Though it is extremely high, the above-sea-level base has a very small perimeter, and it can be ascended via car very quickly.  So quickly, in fact, that visitors or told they should stop at the Visitor center (at 9,000 feet) and rest at least a half an hour to eliminate risk of altitude sickness.  It is also stated that no vehicle besides those with off road capabilities and 4 wheel drive should attempt to climb past the visitor’s center.  There is only one rental place that allows their vehicle’s to be used for this purpose:  Harper’s Rentals, and this is where we had picked up our 4Runner. 


As we ascended the roughly 8 miles from Saddle Road to get to the Visitor Information Station (VIS).  This was a surreal drive as you go from roughly 2500 feet to 9000 feet over these 8 miles.  For most of the drive we were surrounded by dense fog.  The further we went up, the more surreal the vegetation and surroundings looked.   Instead of shrubs and trees, there were strange dead looking single stem “sticks” jutting out from the ground about 4-5 feet high each, with grotesque looking leaves or something at there ends.  RJ described them best by saying “They look like some sort of plant like corpse arms jutting out of the ground all over.”  He also likened it to something from Silent Hill. That comment made the ride even more eerie.  
Driving to the VIS

When we got to the VIS, we got out of the car, and began an hour long wait.  Though a half hour is recommended at least, we figured this would minimize any risks even further.  The VIS has snacks, drinks, souvenirs and a seating area to watch videos about the mountain while you wait.  As you walk in however, there two large Warning signs at the door.  I stopped and began reading them.  Taryn and Amy walked over a couple minutes later and Amy asked “what all do those say?”  I answered “They list the 500 or so ways you can die if you continue beyond this point to the summit.” Truthfully that is pretty much what they did say.  They discussed the potential for below zero temps, 100 mph winds, unfiltered UV rays from the sun, altitude sickness, icy roads, brake failure if inappropriate cars are used, or appropriate cars are used incorrectly in ascending/descending the summit. To add to this, when you walked the building there was a poster emphasizing the usage of low 4 wheel drive to allow for engine braking down the mountain, as opposed to utilizing the cars brake system.  This poster had several pictures of the consequences of not using  engine braking.  These pictures were cars that were demolished due to tumbling down the side of the mountain, or having plowed into the vehicles in front of them.  This did absolutely nothing to help Amy’s nerves, who was very nervous about this activity to start. 

As we waited, Ryan bowed out of the rest of the expedition, as he was already having some respiratory issues at this altitude, and was not comfortable continuing the ascent.  So he agreed to stay at the VIS until we returned in a couple hours.  After the one hour mark, the remaining 5 of us headed up the remaining 8 miles of road to the summit.  We had all read the warning signs of altitude sickness, and were careful to watch for them…headache, nausea, confusion, acting erratically, and making poor decisions…though we thought this still may be difficult to discern from some of the rest of the portions of our trip that didn’t include altitude.


The first 5 miles from the VIS were a gravel road, and the last 3 were paved.  After a couple miles we got to a height where we were no longer in the clouds.  Suddenly we could see over them, and could see the drop-offs that were commonly along-side the road we were driving.  Amy did what she could to distract herself from the fear of a sudden plunging death, while the rest of us took in the scenery.  Jason stated it best in a mix of profundity and matter-of-fact type speak:  “Well that certainly doesn’t suck.”




When we arrived at the top, the view was definitely breath taking.  It is a very odd sensation to see the clouds that are usually above you, hugging part of the ground thousands of feet below you, even though you yourself are standing on ground.  When we got out to walk around, the temperature was in the high 40s and most of us were at least a little light headed.  We walked around for an hour or so, and took a bunch of pictures.  Since there is very little atmosphere to filter out UV rays, most of us put on some extra sunblock.  Taryn provided a bottle that was of course all natural, but was meant to create a barrier to the skin as opposed to soaking into the skin.  Amy didn’t quite understand this, and ended up putting on a little too much, and ended up making a very good impersonation of a mime.
Ceremonial Summit of Mauna Kea

Observatory


After exploring sufficiently, we got in the car and headed back to the VIS.  We contemplated climbing the ceremonial summit to make an offering of the aforementioned, all powerful, Vegan Beef Jerky, however we decided against it.  Jason decided he wanted to make lava-rock angels along side the road.  He jumped out of the car at one point when we stopped, and began removing some of this clothing in order to do so.  Michelle and Amy however decided to ruin the fun and made him get back in. (Taryn and I, for the record, thought it was a grand idea. )  Perhaps however this was part of the “poor decisions” we had read about associated with altitude sickeness.

Vegan Beef Jerky Offerring?

As we continued, we debated how RJ had spent his extended period of time in the VIS.  The most likely answer we came up with was that he probably had started his own cult, and we would walk in on a circle of people all staring with vacant eyes and listening to him.


We got to the VIS shortly before sundown.  The Perseids meteor shower was going on tonight, and this was a good place to watch it.  We sat for a couple more hours, and ate the food we brought up with us.  Clouds continued to form and dissipate while we were watching, but we did have a few periods of insanely clear visibility that allowed us to see a canopy of thousands of stars.  All in all however we only saw 4-5 meteors and finally decided to trek back home and call it a night. 

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