Friday, June 15, 2012

At a Crossroads in Swakopmund

Thursday morning, we were able to sleep in a little later. The plan was for a 7:00am breakfast and hitting the road promptly at 8:00am. Today our group would be splitting up. Mikey and Izzy had completed their safari, however, the four of us were going onward to Swakopmund to meet up with some additional tourists for the dunes and nature part of our package.

The Road to Swakopmund

After breakfast, we left Etosha, in the central part of the northern region of the country, to head towards Swakopmund which is in the center of the western coast of the country. Namibia has a long coast line with a lot of beaches, however, there is a continual current along the coast which comes up from Antarctica, which keeps the ocean very cold, and the air very foggy pretty much all year round.

A little bit southwest of the small town of Omaruru, we pulled over to the roadside for a bit of lunch with nothing around but the highway, the open Namibian countryside, and the tree under which we parked. We set up our table and chairs under the tree, and as we were setting up, I took a bunch of pictures, and noted there were a dozen or so nests, about the size of basketballs suspended from the tree, with a hole on the side. While we were eating, I glanced up and about 10 feet directly over our head, was an incredibly huge nest made of the same twigs. This nest was probably about 5 to 6 feet long, and about 3 feet wide, and about 2 feet tall. I’d never seen anything like it. I pointed upwards, speechless, to Natalie, who jumped in her chair and said “Oh my GOD, what is THAT?”
Social Weaver Nest Over Our Lunch

As cool as can be, Oeckert responded, “An ostrich nest.” We all looked at him with naïve intrigue, and one by one started laughing. “What you don’t believe me?” He responded with a smile. “Its actually a social weaver nest. They all build their nests together, that is why it is so big, and has many holes.

While we were eating, a second van from Chameleon arrived. This one would escort Mikey and Izzy back to Windhoek. After we all finished eating lunch, we wished them well on their travels back to Scotland, and they did the same to us for the rest of our trip. As we continued towards the coastal town of Swakopmund throughout the afternoon, the ground became sandier and sandier, and the vegetation became less and less. It almost seemed that we were reaching the edge of the canvas, and the artist had run out of things to paint. At one point, directly ahead of us, we began to be able to see the Atlantic Ocean on the horizon. As we came into the town of Swakopmund, we could smell the familiar coastal air, just as we had in Mauritius.
Nearing Swakopmund

Driving through Swakopmund, the German influence was very clear. Not only the architecture, but also in the people. Whereas most all the other areas we had been were probably 95% African, this town seemed to be closer to 50/50. Many restaurants and hotels had German names. We made our way just about to the coast and pulled into Hotel a la Mer. Here we checked into our hotel rooms, which were a bit more traditional than our last, with indoor bathrooms and showers, though still no heat. However, with the proximity of the ocean, though the waters are quite cold for swimming, they are warm enough to moderate some of the overnight so that the low will only go down to 54. Quite nice compared to the last few nights.
Hotel a la Mer

This was the end of our trip with Oeckert. Our next guide, Monet, was en route, with one of our new compatriots. Four other compatriots were already here in town somewhere. It was not much longer that Monet appeared with his passenger. They both approached the 4 of us and introduced themselves. The tourist with him, named Margaret sounded as if she had an American accent when she introduced herself. It is strange, after being away for so long, how exciting it is to run into someone from your own country. The last Americans we had seen were at the homestay in Cambodia, two weeks ago.

After going through the introductions, we learned that she is from New Orleans, but has been working in neighboring Zambia for the last 9 months. With this new friend, we headed out as a group of 5 to visit some of the Swakopmund shops, and find some dinner.

The first shop we walked through was an antique shop. In it, they had an old baby buggy, and when we looked inside, there was a girl doll, that was about the most frightening looking thing I’d ever seen. She looked like she could easily play the bride of Chucky. Worried I’d have nightmares for the rest of our trip, we quickly fled the store.
After this, we hit a few touristy shops with handicrafts, postcards and the like. After about an hour, we decided to head to the coast and have some dinner at a seafood restaurant overlooking the ocean. When we got to the coast, it was quite an awe inspiring view. The coastal area was a bit higher than the beach, and a long expanse of sand stretched to the north. The sand disappeared in the almost permanent fog that permeates the coastline. Large waves were rolling in, providing a very calming scene to look at. Were the climate and the currents different here, the beach would be a beautiful place to spend time, but instead it became something only to look at and listen too.
Namibian Sunset over the Atlantic

The restaurant was at the foot of a long pier that stretched out into the ocean. Since it was still relatively warm here, we asked for a table outside. The four of us and our new friend Margaret spent the next couple hours enjoying a few drinks, some tremendous seafood, and shared many a travel story from our trip, as well as her time in Zambia, and some past trips. After sitting in a truck travelling across Namibia all day, and sleeping much of this time, we were all full of energy, and probably smothered the poor girl in all our conversation, and typical Ziemann dysfunction, but it seemed a good time was had by all.

As the conversation continued, I began to notice something that created another one of those rewarding moments for me on the trip. All 4 of us, were eager to talk about the things that we’ve done on our trip, and the things we’ve learned. As we talked about Cambodia, Alexandra jumped in with great interest and empathy explaining some of the history of the Khmer Rouge, and how she saw the impact on people in Cambodia. Margaret drew the connection to the atrocities that occurred in Rwanda not that long ago, as we all lamented how sad it is that these chapters in history seem to continue to reoccur...and what's even more sad, is how unaware many of us are to them. 
View from our Restaurant

Kalyssa as well was eager to share the things that she’s picked up on the trip (and of course was most interested in sharing her crab story again!)

Three months ago, it was difficult to find a lot of interest from the girls around the different places we were going, or the history of the different areas. This evening, as we are on the tail end of the trip, it was difficult for poor Margaret to get in her own comments, as the four of us (myself included) were overflowing with all the different learnings that we’ve experienced through our travels. That, once again reaffirmed, that ultimately, this “family field trip” has been a success.

After dinner, we all headed over to our hotel, and turned in early. We’re looking forwards to spending the next couple days with our new friend, as well as the rest of the group whom we’ll meet tomorrow, as we embark upon our last few days of adventure, before returning back home.

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